Can't change the starting address on 16-CH DC Controller

[koropuxa]

I'm having same problem on my MR16 controller.
Controller works, but can't change starting channel. I know that my Lynx DMX dongle is set right with address utility: if I put MR16 in operate mode and turn on Lynx address utility, brightness on first channel changes. Let say I want to set channel 17 and hit program brightness on 1st channel will be dim, if I set starting  channel 98 and hit program, same channel 1 will be brighter, so it looks like address utility sending a code via DMX.
I've reflashed PIC, made no difference. I'm waiting on some parts from Mouser so I can build second MR16. Will try if that will work, if it will - I'll just program starting channel and swap PIC's. If it wont, will start some troubleshooting. Will keep you updated

[koropuxa]

Mystery solved in my case. It actually was a bad PIC. I built second MR16 controller, programmed it to channel 17, It worked from the first time. Then Installed PIC from my first controller and  tried to program it to channel 17, it would still stay on channel 1. So it is a bad PIC. It's kind of weird : It would flash, reflash, erase from that IC using my computer and pickit 3.
Also I've copied hex from good PIC that I programmed for starting channel 17 to the bad one and controller works just fine starting from channel 17. So it is something strange with that PIC that doesn't allow me to write from either Lynx utility or MR16 controller.
Anyway mow I know I was doing everything right.

This is my first year doing Lynx boards, and I'm so Impressed with results!
Many many thanks to RJ and everyone on this site.

[cpnbnanamn]

Well..  I don't think I need to worry about programming the starting channel on my MR16 anymore.  I screwed up.  Was trying to neaten some things up between my power supply and controller board, and accidentally reversed the polarity.    went the 7805(Let out all the magic smoke!)  Replaced it, but getting NO lights on the board.  Now what???

[holland lights]

Well there could be a lot of reasons why there is still no lights. If you also fried some components, there could be a short across those parts causing a black out on the board. Could be the capacitors on both sides of the 7805.

[cpnbnanamn]

Well the 7805 did actually fry..  and blew a chunk out of itself.  I'm way out of practice on my electronic theory.  I know how to test electrolytic caps, but don't know how I should go about testing the little ceramic caps. on either side.  Is there a schematic in the wiki?

-Roger

[RJ]

First step it to put your digital meter on it to see if you are getting the 5 volts you should. Putting the meter across the middle pin of the 7805 and one other pin should get you 12v (input voltage) and then swapping to the other side should get you 5 volts.

This will tell you if you have a power problem. You likely damaged the pic and TLC5940 chips.

RJ

[cpnbnanamn]

Thanks, RJ.  I'll check that as soon as I get home.  Meanwhile, I've ordered another MR16 through the CO-OP to replace this one.  Grrr  Expensive mistake!!!

[cpnbnanamn]

GREAT NEWS!!!  It's ALIVE!!!  At least to the extent it was before.  Turns out, I had a land tear on the input pin when I was replacing the blown 7805, and when I touched the meter probe to it, it completed the ckt, and the damn thing lit up!!  Fixed the solder joint, and VIOLA!!  Now back to getting the addressing to work.  I have tried reflashing the PIC (finally got my own Pickit3), and so far no joy. 

-Roger

[chrisatpsu]

i did both address change methods on my ssr4's, mr16's and freestyles to program them...   it wasn't that i had trouble, i just wanted to make sure.

[holland lights]

Good thing it was not something more serious.  I always had to use the second method to get my ssr4 to program. I have not built my mr16 yet,but i bet it will be the same.