We need a qualification list to know if the light housing fits AetherII

[Steve Gase]

I hit a big stumbling block.  The heat sink is not back far enough for me to place the glass back over the light and the lens unit.

I've already ripped out the guts so I can't return it and get another... so I'm faced with not using any of the lens' that I purchased... or no glass.

my best bet is to have the glass and over partially open with a wire to hold it half-closes so that the lens does not fall out.

As I suggest in the title, I think we need to have a test or way to measure and qualify a work light housing so that we know if it will work.

The fix for my unit is not easy.  In addition to the top and bottom sides of the housing coming closer together in the back of the unit,  I also have the sides getting closer as they reach the back.  The heat sink is already stretching the full distance across the housing... so to push the sink back I'd need to trim off the sides.  The bends at the top and bottom are also pressed into the housing with no more room to spare.

To solve this for future builders, maybe we need to provide an EXACT list of models that will be good selections.
Maybe we should provide the the dimensions of good unit so that future builders can know and can take the right action.

[lonewolf41]

Steve,
I know with my unit and the "recommended" case from northern, I had to bend the "ears" of the heatsink further than they were to get it to fit down into the case.  It sounds like yours may be interfering the other way as well, but after I bent mine some more, it fit down in there well.  I noticed as I was putting these kits together that the heatsinks were not all bent the same so you could be running into that issue.  I have a couple of extra heatsinks from the coop that I could modify and send to you if you want.  If the heatsink is too wide, I can shorten it and I can make sure that it at least fits my case correctly before I send it out.

Let me know,
-Keith

[meman]

Steve, I had the same problem. Don't know if you already saw my pics and suggestions in this post.

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Even with the PCB mounted, if you can find a large vise or even a crack between two hard objects, the ears can be bent a bit more. The sides will need some milling, but it goes really quickly with a rasp (file) or coarse sanding drum.

Good Luck,
Mike E.

[Steve Gase]

Steve,
I know with my unit and the "recommended" case from northern, I had to bend the "ears" of the heatsink further than they were to get it to fit down into the case.  It sounds like yours may be interfering the other way as well, but after I bent mine some more, it fit down in there well.  I noticed as I was putting these kits together that the heatsinks were not all bent the same so you could be running into that issue.  I have a couple of extra heatsinks from the coop that I could modify and send to you if you want.  If the heatsink is too wide, I can shorten it and I can make sure that it at least fits my case correctly before I send it out.

Keith, to get 2 heat sinks would be a great help.  Let me know what I owe you for postage and expenses.  Thanks!!

[lonewolf41]

Steve,
Check your PM's.

-Keith

Steve,
I know with my unit and the "recommended" case from northern, I had to bend the "ears" of the heatsink further than they were to get it to fit down into the case.  It sounds like yours may be interfering the other way as well, but after I bent mine some more, it fit down in there well.  I noticed as I was putting these kits together that the heatsinks were not all bent the same so you could be running into that issue.  I have a couple of extra heatsinks from the coop that I could modify and send to you if you want.  If the heatsink is too wide, I can shorten it and I can make sure that it at least fits my case correctly before I send it out.

Keith, to get 2 heat sinks would be a great help.  Let me know what I owe you for postage and expenses.  Thanks!!

[complacent_one]

I used the "on sale" cases from HomeDepot.  The heatsinks were a squeeze.  I just bent the ear's about an additional 1/8th of an inch with a set of pliers and they fit great.  With these particular cases, I lined the edge of the heatsink up about a 16th of an inch back from the gasket surface and it provides just enough tension to keep the optional lenses snugly in place.

[inzeos]

I used the "on sale" cases from HomeDepot.  The heatsinks were a squeeze.  I just bent the ear's about an additional 1/8th of an inch with a set of pliers and they fit great.  With these particular cases, I lined the edge of the heatsink up about a 16th of an inch back from the gasket surface and it provides just enough tension to keep the optional lenses snugly in place.

Do you have a link to the ones you are using from Home Depot?  I believe those are the style I picked up back when the Aether 2 was announced.

[complacent_one]

[inzeos]

Looks similar, is their a Home Depot part number on the box?

[inzeos]

This item from Home Depot is way too small for the included heat sink.  Going to have to source different lights it looks like.

Workforce Model # 265-669 Store SKU # 265669

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[Steve Gase]

Here is the unit I purchased from Harbor Freight Tools.
You can see the model number, and the side and top views to get the overall shape.

[Steve Gase]

Here is the look at the inside.

Also the heat sink sitting inside -- after I bend the 'wings' towards the center of the plate.  You might see that the edges are close to the edge of case.  It is firmly pushed back.  It is blocked by the the flat part of the plate as it comes into contact with the shrinking profile of the case.  It is also getting tight at the left and right... and if it goes even further into the case it will be the sides that will next be the problem.

Next, I tip the plate (heat sink) to the side and the left is pushed in all of way.  it shows that I am not blocked by the sides (yet) but by the top-to-bottom distance of the plate.

Finally, I show the tape measure to provide a measurable comparison to your unit(s).  About 5.25" outside top-to-bottom.  The inner part of the plate is 4.0" from inside bend to inside bend.

So... I think the plate width should be shortened by... maybe 0.5"  and the bends should come closer to each other so that 3.5" separates each.    It might mean shortening the height of the plate by 0.5" as well.  I don't know what a loss of a 0.25" border would mean to the protection provided by this heat sink.  The thicker stock should offset the loss, but the thicker stock was a one-time mistake from the supplier.

It is really hard to tell.  As the plate sits back further the lens will not be held in place by the glass face.  Still, with a smaller verticle and horizontal distance the plate can be brought forward and not rest on the case... and then be held the right distance from the glass with the screws.

Hope that helps describe the problem, and what might be a solution.  I don't know if bringing it in will be a univeral problem for all builders, maybe it will be too small for the larger cases.

NOTE: in the pictures I use colored wire for the LED connection.  This does NOT imply that they match to the actual colors/channels for the LED.  Instead, I soldered 4 at a time and used the colors to help match the front connections (1-4) to the back (1-4) and repeated for 5-8.  I just didn't want to confuse anyone to make an assumption based on my wiring.

[onesmoothhead]

There are two different home depot lights. The light in inzeos link is not the same light I used, becauseit is too small. But the 500 watt worklight complacent_one posted will work and is the one I used. You may have to bend the heatsink a little but I had no problem fitting the heatsink prior to soldering.  The correct 500 watt worklight does not have the H base stand. The correct light is also only a special for homedepot and usually in a different part of the store. It is on sale for $5.99 right now. I am not sure your will ever find the same size light every year.  Since this is DIY we try to help each other find ways to make it work. I know this will work. I have completed my AetherII and it is working fine and does everything it should. Thanks for all the help with the other issue I had, DLA and RJ. The number on the box is 521896 and it is 500 watts halogen. The light has a single handle on the top held by a wing nut. I found them by the contractors desk. Usually HD places things in the same area of ever store. I will add a picture soon for additional reference. 

[Steve Gase]

Since I gutted the units I have now, I hate to toss them aside.
But time and effort -- and not all that much money -- I should probably just stop at home depot tomorrow.

The correct 500 watt worklight does not have the H base stand. The correct light is also only a special for homedepot and usually in a different part of the store. It is on sale for $5.99 right now.

Do you have the item number?  Even if you tossed the box, it might be on the sticker on the actual case.

Thanks!

[meman]

Steve, don't throw them out. I'm using 4 of the exact same lights you have from Harbor Freight. Got about 10 min into making my heatsink fit in the first one, the others will go faster. You are correct, it needs a little filed off the side to make it lay flat, but once its in you can actually see the clearance in this image. Knock the 4 tits off the top of the white lens holder to provide a little more clearance and the glass cover will tighten all the way with no problem. For the rest of my lights, I'll also shift the PCB template 1/8 in to the left to better account for the taper of the case.

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Mike E.