High load low channel DMX

[rimist]

Does anyone know of or have the design for a one or two channel DMX device that can handle 1000 watts per channel?

I'm looking to disable my security lighting while my show is on

- Rimist

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[rrowan]

When I first started out with light controls I didn't have enough channels for what I wanted. So I used crydom d1210 relays connected to my mr16. This allowed my to control 10amp items.

here is and example You are not allowed to view links. Register or Login

The ones I got were 3-12 volt dc input and 110 ac output. I put two diodes between the mr16 and the relay to make sure I didn't get any voltage back to the mr16.

Rick R.

[shaunkad]

Rick is right thoughs will work they have 110 coil style so you could use an le just do not try to fade them unless you get a non zero cross style.

[n1ist]

You should be able to use a hockey puck SSR instead of a regular one (or if you are using an LE or SSR4-DMX, remove the optocoupler and wire it to the PIC side).  You would need to use one that does not have built-in zero-crossing switching (most do) and would need to heatsink it.

One like You are not allowed to view links. Register or Login or You are not allowed to view links. Register or Login should work.

/mike

[rimist]

In an attempt to be.... Resourceful ( read frugal) how about the relay that turns on an outside a/c unit?

- Rimist

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[inzeos]

There are also managed power strips, which can connect to your network.

Easy to create a simple SNMP script that toggle the outlets off and on based on show start and end times.

[mmciver]

Don't forget that many of the sequencing software vendors allow for control of X10 type devices.  This could be as easy as changing out the switch and running an all off command before the show, and an all on after the show.

Mike.

[tbone321]

You really don't even need the show software to control the X10 controller.  Any X10 times can perform that function and many are dirt cheap.  You will however, need an X10 controller that is capable of handeling the current.  My X10 controllers are non-dimming controllers that are powering contactors that power my display.  In my case I do use my computer as many of the lights in my house are running on X10.  In this case however, if the lights are being powered from the same location, a simple X10 relay switch could handle that demand and still give manual control when needed.  An X10 timer can be set up to turn the lights on and off as required seperatly from the show. 

[tpctech]

Being the task is to disable the security light when the show is running is pretty simple.  dedicate 1 channel from an express etc program this to be "on" anytime the show is running maybe even the same channel as your "tune to" sign.  Connect this circuit a 120v coil of a 15 amp relay. Then use the normally closed contact of the relay to interupt the power to the security light.  This way the relay can stay in the security light circuit all of the time and work normal during none season time!  This same relay could also be controlled by a simple 24hour plug-in time switch to control light "off" time.

KEN

Side bar:  I just came accross a pile of 3-15vdc in 120vac 40amp out non-zero cross power cubes.  That will work great with a Freestyle to switch larger loads.  PM me if you are interested.

[Gary]

Isn't this the easiest, and still a reasonably-priced solution ($30 on sale for me in Canada--likely cheaper in the U.S.):
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I originally got one of these for my home's outside regular non-motion activated lights. I liked it because it automatically adjusts the time that it turns on as the seasons change (you set the time, date, and how far up north you are in the Continental U.S.--being southern Canada, I have mine set as "Northern US"). I also has a time randomize feature, so it doesn't turn off and on at the exact time every day. It also has a relay switch inside it, which seems to be compact flourescent bulb friendly (unlike another completely silent solid state electronic timer which came with the house that seems to have died when I switched bulb types). It also adjusts on its own time to make up for Daylights Savings changes.

I didn't need all these features for my motion light, but since I liked it so much and was familiar with how to program it, I bought one for my motion light as well, set the "on" time to be a few minutes after the show ends, and turn off at 9 AM or so. I can easily swtich between manual (i.e. always on) mode for most of the year and timer mode with the press of a button.

I'm sure you don't have to buy this specific model, but a timer in a light switch box is easier than messing with relays, X10, network scripts, etc.  Yikes! I know this is a DIY web site, but I DIY to save money, not to create a Rube Goldberg machine.

Okay, now I just have to make this Family Guy reference to a Rube Goldberg machine: 
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[dmaccole]

Lamp timers -- the Christmas Light Master's friend.

Here's my current indoor fav: You are not allowed to view links. Register or Login

And it's outdoor buddy: You are not allowed to view links. Register or Login

I got my first sets (two outdoor and one indoor) on sale at HD -- they were something ridiculous like $5 each (they were on closeout).

Last year I bought some more of the DT620s at Amazon for $12 each (that sale appears to be gone).

I like the DLST feature and the "astronomical" feature, not so much for Christmas activities, but just general outdoor lights. I hate having to reset the timers on the LV garden lighting and just set those xformers to always on and have plugged them into these new timers, which remember settings after a power outage as well.

Don't know that I'd pay $22 for them though ;-) ...

\dmc