Author Topic: Plastic case guidance ...  (Read 4072 times)

Offline dmaccole

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Plastic case guidance ...
« on: February 06, 2012, »
Finally built up the board last night and am now faced with working on the case. Guidance on these aspects would be appreciated:

*Only six screws shipped with mine; I'll need four screws to attach the board to the case. Ideas about size would be appreciated.

*Thoughts on how to attach the battery clips ... I'm thinking a good multipurpose adhesive (Amazing Goop being my favorite) or maybe hot glue. They certainly don't seem to press-fit attach. Any other ideas?

I plan to use a Dremel tool (both cutting wheel and drill bit) and a nibbler tool to cut the holes. Thoughts?

Thanks.

\dmc
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Offline cBell

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Re: Plastic case guidance ...
« Reply #1 on: February 06, 2012, »
As far as case cutting goes, I used various Dremel tools to cut mine, but it wasn't pretty.  I initially cut to the exact lines that the template had, but after using a hobby knife to clean up the edges, the holes were considerably bigger than they should have been.

If I were to do it again, I would use the Dremel to get about 1/8 or more away from where I want the end result to be, then use the hobby knife to finish the holes to get a perfect fit.

My battery terminals do seem to be press fit, they kind of "latch" in.
-Chris
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Offline bisquit476

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Re: Plastic case guidance ...
« Reply #2 on: February 06, 2012, »
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reply #202 is how I did mine, although I'm going to change up a little because the switches needed covered in the way I did it then. Hope this helps,

Bill

Offline chrisatpsu

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Re: Plastic case guidance ...
« Reply #3 on: February 06, 2012, »
my soldering iron came with an exacto blade tip, i'm gonna use it for my cuts.

then i want to print a mirror image on the back side of a transparancy to give the case a professional look. and only cut out for the switches, and dial. (the transparancy will cover the digits, but being clear at that part)

oh yeah, i plan to print a mirror image so that the ink will be on the back, hard to scratch off or smear.
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Offline dlhoppe

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Re: Plastic case guidance ...
« Reply #4 on: February 06, 2012, »
The battery clips will just snap in. No need to glue. It was kind of confusing when I first looked at them. I was trying to put them in upside down. Just spend a little time and you'll see how they slide into the slot and click. Better not snap in the ones that get soldered until after the wires are connected.

I guess we missed on the PCB screws. I believe I used a #3 x 3/16". Looks like there will be some trips to the hardware store. Need to get the PCB screw in the BOM.

For the cutting, look in the original thread for a template someone made. Use it to mark the case and cut inside the lines til you get a uniform opening that fits.


Please post your results. I'd like to see some finished units.
Dave

Offline chrisatpsu

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Re: Plastic case guidance ...
« Reply #5 on: February 06, 2012, »
Dave, do you have a Bobcat logo i can use?  i'd like to use it for the case overlay.
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Offline n1ist

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Re: Plastic case guidance ...
« Reply #6 on: February 06, 2012, »
OK, I screwed up (literally...)  I forgot to include the screws for the tester that are used to mount the PCB in some of the kits.  You can use 4-40 screws, either 3/16" or 1/4" long if you have them, or PM me if you need some sent out.  All of the kits sent out starting today have the screws.

As for the battery contacts, they snap in to the case from the outside (the compartment you insert the batteries into).  Two doubles on one side, one double in the middle on the other, and the two singles on the side with the one double.

/mike

Offline dlhoppe

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Re: Plastic case guidance ...
« Reply #7 on: February 07, 2012, »
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Dave, do you have a Bobcat logo i can use?  i'd like to use it for the case overlay.

Here are a couple of things you might be able to use.

Offline chrisatpsu

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Re: Plastic case guidance ...
« Reply #8 on: February 07, 2012, »
thanks, i'll see what i can come up with
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Offline n1ist

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Re: Plastic case guidance ...
« Reply #9 on: February 07, 2012, »
Here are dimensions pulled from the PCB files:

Offline dmoore

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Re: Plastic case guidance ...
« Reply #10 on: March 17, 2012, »
I've converted the mfg CAD drawings and put them into a complete CAD drawing, which if you have a CNC machine, you should be able to drop in and machine the holes perfectly.  You'll have to forgive the extra space on the side of the LED and the left switch - it took 8 tries until I got it right.


« Last Edit: March 18, 2012, by dmoore »

Offline tmcteer

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Plastic case guidance ...
« Reply #11 on: March 17, 2012, »
Pm sent

Offline dlhoppe

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Re: Plastic case guidance ...
« Reply #12 on: March 18, 2012, »
Remember, this is not a "Lynx" device. It should not be confused with RJ's Lynx equipment even though they are related/compatible.

I had a conversation with RJ about this very subject and he would like those of us who design new equipment to use different branding. So I chose "Bobcat" as sort of a "tip of the hat" to RJ since I was inspired by him on the equipment design, and the brands are related (similar animals).

So please do not label the servo controller or the DMX tester as "Lynx" equipment per RJ's request.


Thanks,
Dave
« Last Edit: March 18, 2012, by dlhoppe »

Offline dmoore

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Re: Plastic case guidance ...
« Reply #13 on: March 19, 2012, »
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Remember, this is not a "Lynx" device. It should not be confused with RJ's Lynx equipment even though they are related/compatible.

Sorry about that - I had the vector already in a drawing from my dongles and just cut-n-pasted it.

Offline JoeFromOzarks

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Re: Plastic case guidance ...
« Reply #14 on: March 19, 2012, »
I may be really in trouble then.  Behind the plexiglass panel I color printed on transparency a mini-LCARS screen so it looks like a Star Trek Tricorder.   It looks really cool!!  The kids want me to make a couple of sequential LED's rows to kinda juice it up a bit.   We'll see.   :)

:) joe
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