Author Topic: First Coop Boards  (Read 9559 times)

Offline mmais68569

  • Sr. Member
  • ****
  • Posts: 374
Re: First Coop Boards
« Reply #30 on: March 18, 2012, »
So as to be real clear on this the problem is with the holes the 16 LED's in the middle of the board go through.

          Mike

Offline rm357

  • Sr. Member
  • ****
  • Posts: 1282
  • 31088
First Coop Boards
« Reply #31 on: March 18, 2012, »
The problem is with the terminal strip that goes all the way down one side.
Robert
Warner Robins, Georgia, USA

Offline kmcallorum

  • Sr. Member
  • ****
  • Posts: 135
First Coop Boards
« Reply #32 on: March 18, 2012, »
I too had the issue, I used a file on the stem and worked them in pieces. Snapping them back together as they begun to fit.  It works but is really time consuming, and in the end pcb untouched and a working board.

Offline Rogelio

  • Sr. Member
  • ****
  • Posts: 131
Re: First Coop Boards
« Reply #33 on: March 18, 2012, »
2 of the 4 boards I have were too tight.  Had to drill them out a little.

Offline RJ

  • Administrator
  • Sr. Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 8519
Re: First Coop Boards
« Reply #34 on: March 18, 2012, »
sorry for the issue it is a plating issue but do not have an answer on what happened just that they would replace any that were unusable. Seems the majoritity of users have been able to sand down the post a small bit nd get them to fit. Any that could not I have replaced with the spare pcbs I ordered for the store and have an order in to replace them.

Once my heatsink order and pcb replacement get here I can restock the store with some pcbs.

RJ
Innovation beats imitation - and it's more satisfying

Offline chrisatpsu

  • Sr. Member
  • ****
  • Posts: 3729
  • ahhh, yes... my new blink-i-nator 3000!!!
Re: First Coop Boards
« Reply #35 on: March 18, 2012, »
i have a board from the 2md coop that has this problem, should i attempt assembly, or do you reccomend replacing the board before i get started?
To rule the entire tri-state area!  What's that? Perry the Platypus!!!

Offline RJ

  • Administrator
  • Sr. Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 8519
Re: First Coop Boards
« Reply #36 on: March 18, 2012, »
If it is just a matter of polishing then pins then do it, if it is more than that then it needs replaced but it may need to wait until new pcbs arrive.

RJ
Innovation beats imitation - and it's more satisfying

Offline pk

  • Patron Member
  • Sr. Member
  • ****
  • Posts: 618
  • 80004
Re: First Coop Boards
« Reply #37 on: March 18, 2012, »
I drilled the holes with a #58 drill bit (0.042 DIA) and the terminal strip went in easier.  After drilling, I verified there was still continuity on the component side from the neutral connection of the input power connection to the neutral connection of each channel.  Don't forget channels 1-8 get the neutral from the left side and channels 9-16 get neutral from the right. 

Offline Robert Waller

  • Jr. Member
  • **
  • Posts: 22
Re: First Coop Boards
« Reply #38 on: March 19, 2012, »
Here's a bit more info that might help diagnose this in some way.  I measured the pin diameter of a hundred or so random sampled terminal pins and my typical pin diameter measurement was about 1.06 mm.  A few of the pins were as thick as 1.10 mm and many were in the 1.07 to 1.09 range.  My solution was to chase the holes with a 1.1 mm carbide micro drill using a jewelers drill press.  Since I've been building some of prototype PCBs, I have most drill sizes up to 6.5 mm in 0.05 mm steps.   I found 1.05 was still too tight for some of the terminal pins.  While chasing the holes, I watch the drill shaving and for the most part, I only see the plating material.  After chasing, I also check the continuity and resistance to make sure I have a good front to back connection.  I haven't had any problems with using this process so far.  Here's a summary of my experiences.

Last Year

I built 32 LEs last year for my display.  I don't remember having any issues with the terminal pins fitting last year.  However, they were snug and required a bit of force from time to time.

First Coop This Year

I bought 6 LEs in the first Coop this year.  Two of the six required chasing.   
My neighbor across the street bought 2 LEs for his display and I needed to chase both of his boards.   

10 PCBs & Heat Sinks

I purchased 10 heat sinks and PCB between the first and second Coop this year.  One of ten of those boards required chasing.  Several of the others were extremely tight.

Second Coop This Year

I bought 6 LEs in the second Coop this year.  Five of the six PCBs from the second Coop required chasing.



As a note, at this point, I have sufficient LEs for my display this year.   However, I have several friends that may purchase LEs for their displays and I will probably help them build their boards.  So I try to keep track of this if needed.

Hope this information helps and again, thanks for all of your time and effort.

Offline Rogelio

  • Sr. Member
  • ****
  • Posts: 131
Re: First Coop Boards
« Reply #39 on: March 19, 2012, »
My concern with the tight fit is will the solder be able to wick pass the pin and provide a good connection on the opposite side of the board.  Difficult to inspect after soldering.
Roy

Offline RJ

  • Administrator
  • Sr. Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 8519
Re: First Coop Boards
« Reply #40 on: March 19, 2012, »
Solder is what is filling the hole when you heat it it will flow and do its job. It's just getting the ipns in the holes that is the issue.

RJ
Innovation beats imitation - and it's more satisfying

Offline tbone321

  • Sr. Member
  • ****
  • Posts: 4055
Re: First Coop Boards
« Reply #41 on: March 19, 2012, »
Since the problem appears to be to much solder plating on the board causing the tight fit, yoiu should no issues with that.  The solder being applied by you will reflow the existing solder causing the tight fit and you should be good to go.
If at first you don't succeed,
your not cut out for sky diving