power cords

[RJ]

Why do you need any ends?  If you do like me and go buy a cheap short ext cord. maybe 3' or 6' at the most.  Cut the female end off and cut the green wire off shorter than the other two and shrink wrap it where it can not touch anything. Then hook the wires up to the controller, The male end is already on the cord and weather tight.

RJ

[memphislights]

Most of the cheap extension cords are 6' 16/2 at about $1.  I haven't seen cheap cords in 14AWG in the $1-2 range.

[RJ]

OH!,

  Ok well you want find them for $1 - $2 they will cost a few bucks but if you find a cheaper way them I understand.

Like for the output cords instead of buying lots of premolded cheap ext cords this year I am just getting 1000 ft of SPT with the UV inhibitor and using the Vampire taps as it make a smaller setup with only one open plug hole and that gets filled when I plug the lights in.

It works out about the same unless someone picks up another HD 3 pack for $1.24 deal! LOL

Let me know what you come up with I am looking for a supplier for the power input cords that are cheap.

RJ

[memphislights]

I went to HD, and they had plenty of the 3pk "holiday" cords, but they weren't on sale.  I looked into using the SPT and female plugs for the outputs like you are planning.

I found the 1000ft SPT-1 for $130 and the female plugs for .65 to .55 in quantity plus about $23 in shipping.  Did you find any better prices?

I guess I have another question now.  Do most people use a dual AC input or a single?  I am used to using the dual inputs on the LOR for 30A max, but with more channels controlling individual effects, unless you are stringing several together, the current draw should be less than 1A per channel (mostly LED's).  If that assumption is correct, then I should be able to get by with a single 14AWG input cord.  I could always dual cord if I expect the LE to have to drive more incandescents or multiples of something, right?

This leads me to the triacs on the LE.  They are rated at 6A.  I think that from the stuff that I read, if you are running at less than 1/2 of the rated amps, it should run relatively cool without a heatsink.  How is it in the LE in actual practice?

Slightly off of the subject for the last question, but better than opening up another post just for that.

 

[RJ]

1 Amp a channel is fine with no heatsink be the coops come with it and it looks nice!  The rating has some effect on the ability to use it without a heat sink but ver little it is not double the rating and double the load as you are saying.  If you want more than 1 amp on a TO220 case since it can only dissipate so much heat in the area avaliable you need to attach it to something with a good path for the heat to move fast into it. A heatsink with a little heat compound is ideal.

No it will not self destruct at 2 amps as a few will jump in hear to say but it is a good idea to keep them cool.

As far as the cords As long as your cords will handle the max current you are going to use them for then you are fine. I used 3 expresses on my mega tree this year. One string of LED per channel. I used 2 cheap ext cords 16GA I think on it. They were not even close to a limit.
Yes I did find it cheaper. If you order before the end of the month on the pre sale form creative displays they have it for 1000' for $85 with the UV inhibitor in it. And the ends are like .40 I think it is.

RJ

[wbuehler]

You can get a really good deal on SPT3 1000' from Paul over at CDI
Here is a link from the DIYC forum to his LED group buy thread which also has the wire and vampire plugs on the price sheet.

You are not allowed to view links. Register or Login

[gjbankos]

So I'm not going to be building my own power cords.  That being said, it looks like 14 or 12 guage into my LE and cheap indoor power cords out of the LE is going to be fine?  I'm running LEDs with my LE, so my output needs won't be large at all.  Thank you in advance.

[REM]

So I'm not going to be building my own power cords.  That being said, it looks like 14 or 12 guage into my LE and cheap indoor power cords out of the LE is going to be fine?  I'm running LEDs with my LE, so my output needs won't be large at all.  Thank you in advance.

Sounds like a winner to me!

[magic8192]

I might just buy the cords that solidmodeler found for .78 cents each in quantities of  100+

You are not allowed to view links. Register or Login

[brandonj]

I might just buy the cords that solidmodeler found for .78 cents each in quantities of  100+

You are not allowed to view links. Register or Login

That is what i am doing.  I just wish they had a 6 foot version.  But i think it will make for a nice finishing tough on the express!

[REM]

Spent some time at Lowes tonight trying to decide what to do about input power cords.  Ideally I'd like to have 2 20A-capable inputs.  The problem is that 20A plugs are all NEMA 5-20 "one-sideways-prong".  Extension cords with 12g and NEMA 5-20's are harder to find and expensive.  Now, you can buy a small quantity of 12-3 "service cord" for a buck and change a foot and add on the plugs but you still have the prong issue.  If you make your own 12g extensions to feed them with the full 20 amps then you're good.  If not, I guess you could still use an adapter and at least have the future capability - but even those aren't cheap at all.

Frankly I'm leaning toward just 15A per side and using something like this: You are not allowed to view links. Register or Login .  At 2 bucks and change you can't hardly beat that.  Heck, it's even SPT-3.

Guess I'll go ahead and get the .78 cent output cords from them too.  Maybe I should apply for some of that stimulus money

[spider236]

where do i find the vampire taps you are talking about? what kind of wire is used with them?