Manual Aeon

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The LYNX Aeon Clock Assembly Manual


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Thank you for choosing to build the Lynx Aeon. I believe you will be happy with your choice. The Aeon is designed to be both a fun project and an very accurate clock. My intentions were to keep it looking kind of crude and technical and so it shows all of its workings plainly on its face. It has a kind of simplistic charm about that so far the people who have seen it like.


This is the one project I have created that no Lighting addicts have begged to have me build them one.


WARNING! This clock has been design for personal use as a means of education and entertainment. As such it is not rated, tested, or approved for any use and I assume no responsibility in the use or operation of this equipment or for the accuracy of any information made on part of itself. This device has been design for my use and my use only. This is simply an explanation of how I built my own personal clock for informational purposes. I make no warranties written or otherwise to it. It should be considered an experimental device with possible unknown characteristics.


Please use static precautions in the handling of these parts. If you are not familiar in them please research on the internet prior to handling them. You can damage you parts with improper handling!


Preparing to Build

The next thing we want is to make sure you are up to speed on soldering and electrostatic protection of the components in your kit. If you are not an experienced printed circuit builder, I recommend you visit the site:

http://curiousinventor.com/guides/How_To_Solder

Check out there extremely good video on soldering correctly. Even if you are an expert, it is a good video to watch.

Another issue you must be aware of is that some electronic components can be damaged easily by electrostatic charges that can build up in you or your equipment. We have all been shocked by walking on carpet and grabbing a door knob before. This is electrostatic charge in action. It takes much less than this to hurt some of our parts. If you are unfamiliar with procedures to protect from this please use the internet to research it before opening your parts up. You can damage your parts if handled wrong!

You will need a few tools that do not come with your kit to build the Aeon. You will need a good soldering iron. I can not stress enough that a good soldering iron makes a big difference in these projects. The little 15w cheap irons are more apt to hurt your parts by taking too long to get the parts up to soldering temperature than a good iron which can bring it up to temp very fast. Remember it is more how long you keep the part hot than it is how hot you get it within reasonable soldering temperatures. A good soldering iron can be had for very reasonable amounts of money. You can purchase one for $30 to $60 dollars. Most anything that is called a soldering station where there is a temperature control separate from the iron itself will more than likely be fine but make sure it is rated for more than 15 watts. I myself use a cheap Weller like this one

http://www.amazon.com/Weller-Soldering-Station-WLC100-120V/dp/B000ICEMYA


It works fine and is very inexpensive. I even saw this model on sale at Sears. Radio Shack has a very nice looking digital model on sale but be careful as it does not allow you to replace the tip. Tips are a part that wear out and need replacing from time to time. While we are on tips get some. I recommend you get the smaller chisel shape as this work very well for all around board building.

You need solder, so buy some. I recommend the .032 size as the larger sizes tend to cause you to put too much solder on. How much? Go ahead and get a 1 lb spool as it's cheaper in large volume and you will go through it faster than you think. Make sure you are getting rosin core for electronics; they make some solder for plumbing that has acid as the core this is a bad mistake to make.

You need some work area to work with good lighting. Do not attempt to solder circuit boards in poorly lighted areas. If you wear reading glasses go get them you will want them I promise you. I recommend a set of helping hands like this: http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2104639&cp=&parentPage=search

Step 1

Install all of the LEDS


Please note these pictures are of the prototype and yours has one additional 33 ohm resistor not shown in the pictures.


This may not be the best order to build it in but it is how I built mine. Install all 60 of the green led's and 12 red led's into the pcb. Make sure to take your time and get the longer legs inserted into the hole marked "+" these should be the top hole looking at the front facing up the correct direction to read it.


Solder all of the connections but make sure you have led flat down against the pcb so it points straight up and is square. It will try to stop above the pcb but a slight push will cause them to pop in flush.


Check your work as you go they must be in correct or the clock will end up being non functioning and we really want you to be successful on the build. Longer leg goes in the hole on the top marked "+" If you want to cross check yourself there is a flat spot on the edge of the led's that will match up on the print of the pcb when the led is in the correct way. You have to look close or under a magnifier.


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Step 2

Install resistors, capacitors and sockets


Now we need to install the resistors. Each resistor is marked on the pcb for the value the is installed in each location. They are either 10, 33, 4.7K or 10K ohm resistor for each location. If in doubt use your multimeter set on resistance to check the resistors before you install them. Once you are sure they are in the correct locations solder them in with them centered and flat against the pcb so they look good.


Now install the 8 0.1uf capacitors in the locations marked for them. these are almost just wires but the have a small bump in the middle. Note that the location above the Lynx logo should remain empty, as it and the header next to it is for future expansion. Solder them in the same way as the resistors.


There are three 100uf capacitors that are larger; they look like little cans with wires out the bottom of them. Install these but they have a polarity, so must be installed the correct way. Look for a stripe on one side of them marked with a "-" sign. Make sure that side of the capacitor is away from the side on the pcb marked with the "+" sign.


Now insert all of the sockets in the locations. Make sure the notch on the one end lines up with the notch on the printing on the pcb. Carefully without bend the pins pop them into the pcb. We use sockets that lock into place so you can turn the pcb over and solder with out them falling out.


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Step 3

Install the power connector, Push Buttons, Regulators and Battery Holder and Battery

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Insert the battery holder into the pcb. One side has two pins and the other has one. Solder it in place.


Insert the regulators in place making sure to the put the correct one in the correct location. The metal side of the unit is towards the number 12 on the front. There is a white solid rectangle to indicate this on the pcb. Solder them in place. You will want to turn you soldering iron up about 20 deg more than normal to do these so that you can get a good solder joint.


Now insert the push buttons. Find the small pin on the one side of the bottom of the push button and align it with the hole for it on the pcb. the pins will lock the push button in so it does not fall out when you turn over the pcb to solder it. solder both of them in now.


Now install the power connector. It is mounted on the back of the pcb. the opposite side as everything else and the hole for the plug faces away from the pcb.


Solder it in the pcb it will need some additional heat to solder well.


Now install all of the chips in their sockets. They all use different number of pins so it is easy to find the correct one for the position except for the pic chip which is part # 24fj32ga002 and goes in the very middle of the pcb with the notch facing up. 5 of them are all the same. Make sure to insert them in the correct direction and not to bend their pins while inserting them. Take you time and use a magnifier. The notches on the chips should be the same side as the notches on the sockets. the one odd part is the DS32Khz module which as a dot and it should be on the left hand top side as it marks pin #1.


Put your 6 pin header into the board where it is marked ICSP and solder it in place.


Now insert you battery into its holder. The "+" sign stamped into the battery should face up towards you.


If your clock came on a coop then the you are ready to power it up and set the time.


If you bought the parts yourself you will need to hook your pickit up to the ICSP headed and program the pic as normal before proceeding.


Plug the round connector from the wall wart adapter into the pcb power connector and plug in the adapter to the wall.


Step 4

Setting the time


Setting the time is easy. Push the select button once and a single hour led will light up. Push the set button and step the hour until it is on the correct hour.


Now push the select button again and a minute led will light. again push the set button and step the minute until it is one minute more than the correct time. Now wait for the time to catch up and hit the new minute at zero seconds. Push the select button and the time will be what you set and the seconds will start at zero.


You should find your clock is very accurate and keeps very good time. Also when you unplug it and plug it back in it does not lose time and starts back up right on time.

Enjoy your new time piece and take pride in that you Did It Yourself!


RJ