Manual DSC

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Lynx Dumb String Controller V1 Manual
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Introduction

Thank you for choosing to build the Lynx Dumb String Controller. I believe you will be happy with your choice. The DSC is designed to be both a fun project and and very cost effective way to add RGB lighting to your equipment list.


Like the Smart String Controller, this device also uses pixelnet and receives it's data AND power from one of the Active or Passive Hubs.


WARNING! This Device has been design for personal use as a means of education and entertainment. As such it is not rated, tested, or approved for any use and I assume no responsibility in the use or operation of this equipment or for the accuracy of any information made on part of itself. This device has been design for my use and my use only. This is simply an explanation of how I built my own personal one for informational purposes. I make no warranties written or otherwise to it. It should be considered an experimental device with possible unknown characteristics.


Please use static precautions in the handling of these parts. If you are not familiar in them please research on the internet prior to handling them. You can damage you parts with improper handling!


Preparing to Build

The next thing we want is to make sure you are up to speed on soldering and electrostatic protection of the components in your kit. If you are not an experienced printed circuit builder I recommend you visit the site:

http://curiousinventor.com/guides/How_To_Solder

And check out there extremely good video on soldering correctly. Even if you are an expert it is a good video to watch.

Another issue you must be aware of is that some electronic components can be damaged easily by electrostatic charges that can build up in you or your equipment. We have all been shocked by walking on carpet and grabbing a door knob before. This is electrostatic charge in action. It takes much less than this to hurt some of our parts. If you are unfamiliar with procedures to protect from this please use the internet to research it before opening your parts up. You can damage your parts if handled wrong!

You will need a few tools that do not come with your kit to build the SS Controller. You will need a good soldering iron. I can not stress enough that a good soldering iron makes a big difference in these projects. The little 15w cheap irons are more apt to hurt your parts by taking too long to get the parts up to soldering temperature than a good iron which can bring it up to temp very fast. Remember it is more how long you keep the part hot than it is how hot you get it within reasonable soldering temperatures. A good soldering iron can be had for very reasonable amounts of money. You can purchase one for $30 to $60 dollars. Most anything that is called a soldering station where there is a temperature control separate from the iron itself will more than likely be fine but make sure it is rated for more than 15 watts. I myself use a cheap Weller like this one

http://www.amazon.com/Weller-Soldering-Station-WLC100-120V/dp/B000ICEMYA

Another recommended Solder Station is the MPJA 302A is has a digital temperature readout

It works fine and is very inexpensive. I even saw this model on sale at Sears. Radio shack has a very nice looking digital model on sale but be careful as it does not allow you to replace the tip. Tips are a part that wear out and need replacing from time to time. While we are on tips get some. I recommend you get the smaller chisel shape as this work very well for all around board building.

You need solder so buy some. I recommend the .032 size as the larger sizes tend to cause you to put too much solder on. How much? Go ahead and get a 1 lb spool as it’s cheaper in large volume and you will go through it faster than you think. Make sure you are getting rosin core for electronics they make some solder for plumbing that has acid as the core this is a bad mistake to make.

You need some work area to work with good lighting. Do not attempt to solder circuit boards in poorly lighted areas. If you wear reading glasses go get them you will want them I promise you. I recommend a set of helping hands like this: http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2104639&cp=&parentPage=search


Step 1

Install three .1uf capacitors as shown above. They have no polarity so you can put them in any direction. Flip the pcb and solder them in then trim the excess leads off short.


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Step 2

Install two 4.7K ohm resistors (yellow-violet-red) as shown above and solder them in place and trim the leads.


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Step 3

Install the 120 ohm resistor (brown-red-black-black-brown) in place and solder/trim.

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Step 4

Install the three 330 ohm resistors (orange-orange-brown) as shown and solder them in place and trim the leads.


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Step 5

Install/solder the blue 4.7uf capacitor (475) in place as shown. It does not matter the direction. You can bend it over as shown but it is not required.

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Step 6

Install both the 8 pin and the 28 pin sockets as shown. Make sure to put the notches in the correct direction as marked on the pcb. These sockets have kinked leads that lightly lock the socket to the pcb so you can turn them over to solder without them falling out. This is a nice feature but requires extra caution as the pins can be bent under the socket if care is not taken inserting them. Check before you start soldering that all pins are sticking through the back of the pcb the same. If not correct before soldering.

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Step 7

Install the two headers on the pcb and solder.

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Step 8

Find the two different three pin regulators (7805 & 1117) and using a pair of needle nose pliers bend the leads a small amount more than 90 degrees as shown. Create the bend at the point where the leads narrow just below the parts body. This will cause the part to lay down flat and tight on the pcb when inserted.

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Insert the two regulators one at a time and while they are push tight with the pcb solder them in place. Make sure they line up straight on the rectangles marked on the pcb.

  • Note : The 7805 (5v) is the left one near the little blue capacitor, the LD1117 (3.3v) marked LD33 is the right one near the 6 pin white header.

Step 9

The three mosfets are now ready to be placed into the pcb. Please observe the correct position, with the metal tabs going on the thicker side of the marked rectangles. Please maintain space between each of them when soldering.

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Step 10

Cut the male end off of your pigtail as shown.

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Step 11

Mark one inch of the insulation and remove it without damaging the wires inside.

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This is what it should look like when complete.
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Step 12

Make sure to slide your end cap over the wire. The end cap is a standard pvc cap with a hole drilled in the center of the top, sized to fit the wire well.


PLEASE NOTE: The original SMART Strings only needed 1” pvc pipes and end caps to fit into.
The DUMB Strings NEED MORE ROOM to account for the mosfets on the pcb.
You may wish to take a controller with the mosfets installed with you to verify what size you wish to use to confirm that the controller will fit into what size pvc you use.


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Make sure to slide your end cap over the wire. The end cap is a standard 1" pvc cap with a hole drilled in the center of the top sized to fit the wire well.

Step 13

Now we need to connect the RJ45 pigtail that came with your kit to the DSC. Please pay attention to this step by reading it completely before proceeding. On the DSC the four pads for the eight conductors of the cat5 stranded cable there is one side marked with a #1 on the left side.

Below the pads are four holes. The conductors go up from the bottom of the pcb through these holes first. These are for strain relief.

They then bend over and go down through the pads to be soldered. Try to keep them the same length so any pull will spread across all of them.

The conductors go in this order starting at the pad mark #1 on the left to the right.

1 - White with Orange Stripe
2 - Orange
3 (Positive)

White with Blue Stripe
Blue
White with Green Stripe

4 (Ground)

Green
White with Brown Stripe
Brown

This is VERY IMPORTANT as these carry power and getting them swapped will do damage as you will create a short. Double and triple check before soldering.

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Step 14

Now carefully insert the two chips in place without bending any pins. Make sure the notches on the chips match the notches on the sockets and pcb marking.

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Insert the blue shunt on the two pin header connected to only one of the pins as shown. This is it's normal position when you are not programming the DSC.

Step 15

Please make sure you have the pvc pipe over the controller, past the mosfets to the left side, where you can pull it back on after the next steps.

You will want to put a 4 conductor cable or set of wires through your second pvc cap, orientated properly so it can be used to close over the pvc pipe on the controller. Depending on your choice, this may be wires of a dumb string of leds, or a 4 connection pigtail from Ray or otherwise. You want to solder the wires to the R, G, B, and + connections on the end of the DSC, next to the mosfets. Please DOUBLE CHECK your particular needs for whatever light string you are using.

Run the wires up from beneath the pcb, into the outer holes, then over into the inside holes and solder them to the pcb.

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Step 16

Flash the pic. Connect your Pickit (2 or 3 as shown below, just as on the SSC). Startup the Pickit standalone utility. Select the pic (PIC24FJ32GA002), and load the new firmware from the wiki, then click on Write.

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Step 17

The last step before closing the pvc tube up is to program the DSC. This is different than the SSC, since most options are not used. But it still uses the same SSC Utility. You want to set the start channel for the DSC.


Step 18

Now push the end caps on the pipe to close up your DSC. Do not glue your caps as you want to be able to access your controller to program it. I do not find that water gets in the housing as they fit snug just keep the controller housing off of the ground so it is not laying in puddles.


Congrats you have completed a DSC.

RJ

Updated by KeithTarpley, with minor help from rrowan