Manual MR16 v1
Contents
Introduction
Thank you for making the decision to build the LYNX MR16 Controller. I believe this decision will be one you will be very happy with. This controller was my attempt to design the best dimming controller for MR16 spot lights available for the do it yourselfer’s like you. The goals for the controller were professional looks and operation, cost effective, easy to assemble for even a novice builder, DMX compatible, software start channel programming.
WARNING! This device uses potentially deadly voltages in operation. If you do not feel it is within your ability to work with these voltages please stop and get assistance, or purchase ready built commercial dimmers. This dimmer has been design for personal use as a means of education and entertainment. As such it is not rated, tested, or approved for use in commercial environments and as such is forbidden by the designer. Improper use of this equipment could be hazardous to life and property and the suitability of use is your responsibility. I assume no responsibility in the use or operation of this equipment or for the accuracy of any information made on part of itself. This device has been design for my use and my use only. This is simply an explanation of how I built my own personal dimmers for informational purposes. I make no warranties written or otherwise to it. It should be considered an experimental device with possible unknown characteristics.
Please use static precautions in the handling of these parts. If you are not familiar in them please research on the internet prior to handling them. You can damage you parts with improper handling!
Case - Keptel CG-500
Preparing to Build
The next thing we want is to make sure you are up to speed on soldering and electrostatic protection of the components in your kit. If you are not an experienced printed circuit builder I recommend you visit the site:
http://curiousinventor.com/guides/How_To_Solder
And check out its extremely good video on soldering correctly. Even if you are an expert it is a good video to watch.
Another issue of which you must be aware: some electronic components can be damaged easily by electrostatic charges which can build up in you or your equipment. For example, we have all been shocked by walking on carpet and grabbing a door knob. This is an electrostatic charge in action. It takes much less than this to hurt some of our parts. If you are unfamiliar with procedures to protect from this please use the Internet to research it before taking your parts out of their packaging. You can damage your parts if handled incorrectly!
You will need a few tools that do not come with your kit to build the MR-16. You will need a good soldering iron. I cannot stress enough that a good soldering iron makes a big difference in these projects. The little 15w cheap irons are more apt to hurt your parts by taking too long to get them up to soldering temperature than a good iron which can bring it up to temp very fast. Remember, damage is more about how long you keep the part hot than it is how hot you get it (within reasonable soldering temperatures). A good soldering iron can be had reasonably. You can purchase one for $30 to $60. Most anything that is called a soldering station -- where there is a temperature control separate from the iron itself -- will more than likely be fine, but do make sure it is rated for more than 15 watts. I use a cheap Weller like this one
http://www.amazon.com/Weller-Soldering-Station-WLC100-120V/dp/B000ICEMYA
It works fine and is inexpensive. I even saw this model on sale at Sears. Radio Shack has a very nice looking digital model on sale, but be careful as it does not allow you to replace the tip. Tips are a part that wear out and need replacing from time to time. While we are on tips: get some extras. I recommend you get the smaller chisel shape as these work very well for all-around board building.
You need solder, so buy some. I recommend .032 size as the larger sizes tend to cause you to put too much solder on. How much? Go ahead and get a 1 lb. spool, as it’s cheaper in large volume and you will go through it faster than you think. Make sure you are getting rosin core for electronics; they make some solder for plumbing that has acid as the core (this is a bad mistake to make).
You need some work area to work with good lighting. Do not attempt to solder circuit boards in poorly lighted areas. If you wear reading glasses, go get them -- you will want them I promise you. I recommend a set of helping hands like this: http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2104639&cp=&parentPage=search
STEP 1
Install all of the Capacitors and Resistors
Three of the .1uf capacitors need to be put on the places above the chips marked for them now.
Install the 4.7k ohm resistor in the marked location above the big chip if you are going to use the mosfets for high current.
If on the other hand you plan to jumper the mosfets where the ovals marks are and leave them off for constant current drive up to 100ma per channel. Then you need to choose a resistor to match the current limit you need and place it here. The correct value for the current needed can be located in the datasheet for the TLC5940NT chip.
Common currents are:
20 ma - Use 1.91k ohm such as Mouser pn# 660-MF1/4DCT52R1911F.
100 ma - Use 380 ohm such as Mouser pn# 660-MF1/4LCT52R391J.
Then install the 120 ohm resistor at the top of the board’s center where it is marked.
You can see the row of paired rectangles that run across the center of the board just above the location for the 16 transistors. Each pair needs a 3k resistor and a .1 uf capacitor added to them as you can see in the above picture if you are using the transistors for high current operation.
If you are not using them and running the board as a low current constant current driver leave them out.
That’s a lot of soldering so take a break. If you try to do too much in one sitting you will start making too many mistakes and mistakes with solder are costly in time.
STEP 2
Install all chip sockets and the clock module and terminals
Ok, we are ready to start the second step of assembly of the MR-16. Begin by opening and removing all of the chip sockets (DIP SOCKETS). We will start with the smallest of these which is the 8 pin socket. Now all of the components have marking on the top side of the PCB board to show their location but you must pay attention to their orientation so they have the correct pins in the correct place. The socket locations all have rectangles with little round notches on one end of them with the other end being flat. The notched end is the end that pin #1 of the chip will go to. On the circuit board you will find the area marked out for the 8 pin socket and it will be labeled RS485. The marking will have one end with a round notch on it. The notches on all the sockets with the exception being the largest one will face to the right looking at the board as it is in the image above. When I reference left or right top or bottom in these instructions it will be as the board sits in the photo.
All soldering takes place on the bottom or (back) of the board away from the markings. Remember that when you turn the board over to the back every thing reverses on you.
Everyone has they own way of holding the socket in until they are soldered in. I like to turn the board over to the back and put the least amount of solder I can over one of the middle holes on one side of the socket. This allows you to put the pins of the other side of the socket through and hold the socket while pushing extremely easy. Then you heat that one hole on the back. When the solder melts the socket will drop in. remove the iron and it will cool and hold the socket in until you are done. Make sure to reheat this pin while doing the others to insure you have a good joint. Some people prefer to use tape to hold them in and some even super glue them on first and then solder. Make sure your socket is in the correct holes and that it faces the correct way and then solder the other pins in. If you are happy with it you can go ahead and start soldering the other sockets in. Be careful on the largest socket as it faces different than the rest. And check each one for direction before soldering it. Pay careful attention that you are putting the right size socket in the correct set of holes
Now once the sockets are all in lets find the 40 MHz clock module pn # 520tch4000-x. It is a shiny square with four pins. The spot for it is next to and right of the RS485 chip where we started as is marked XTAL. Notice that there is a white dot on the bottom right of the markings for it. A dot next to a device usually indicates where pin #1 goes. If you look on the module you will see a small black dot above one of the pins. Make sure the two dots are as close together as you can get them when you insert the module into the board. Now if it is correct solder the four pins to the board.
Now install the quick fit spade terminals. Start by pushing each spade into the holes, do all of the 16 channels (32) of them plus the two for power on the right hand side of the pcb. Flip over the board and solder them in. Make sure you have good solder connections here.
That’s a lot of soldering so take a break.
Notice that we started with fairly short items. It is best to put short items on and work out to the taller items as you go. As you progress you will understand better why this is. The image at the top of this section is what it should look like at this point.
STEP 3
Install RJ-45 Connectors, Blue Capacitor, Jumper Headers
We will now install the RJ45 connectors for our DMX to plug into. They will snap in tight so make sure to align the small pins correct and then support the board as you push them in. It takes effort to snap them in so support the pcb while you do this. Some like to put the pcb on foam and do it where the foam allows it to go in but supports the pcb.
Install the round 100uf capacitor into the board making sure the black band marked “-“ is not on the side with the “+” on the board.
Install the 2 pin and the 3 pin jumper headers in the board the short side of the pins go into the pcb. Sorry about the blue jumpers, I should have taken the picture without them.
STEP 4
Locate the Mosfet 16 transistors and install them as shown above to complete the MR16 Controller if you will be using them for higher output. Make sure and face the flat metal side of them toward the white rectangle side of the part outline on the board.
If you are going to use it in constant current mode leave them off and jumper the pads that have the ovals around them.
Now let’s add the 7805 voltage regulator. It is a three pin device and goes on the right of the clock. Make sure and face the flat metal side of it toward the white rectangle side of the part outline on the board. Which is on the inside not the outer edge of the board.
(Note: The 7805 and the Mosfet transistors look exactly alike. Do not take the Mosfets out of their shipping container until you have installed the 7805.)
It is a three pin device and goes above the lugs. Make sure and face the flat metal side of it toward the white rectangle side of the part outline on the board. So the flat metal side is facing the 7805 voltage regulator. Install the 7805 in the heatsink with the metal tab to the large side of the heat sink and then install it and solder.
Final Assembly
Now we need to insert the chips into there correct sockets. There is not much chance of you getting them in the wrong ones as the chips are all of different pin counts. There are The board is marked for the correct part. Get them oriented correctly with pin one in the correct position. Pin one is marked on the chips as a notch on the end where pin 1 is and sometimes a dot over pin one. Make sure you put chips in very careful and do not bend any pins as they sometimes can be a challenge to insert straight. Take your time here and before pushing them in look over both side to make sure all pins are started straight. TAKE YOUR TIME HERE!
Make sure to only feed the board from a regulated 12 volt DC power supply. Make sure the supply has the current capacity to handle the lights you are controlling. I am using Wirekats 32 led MR16 and they draw about .17 amps per lamp. Plan accordingly to your use.
Do not attempt to control more than 2.5 amps per channel from the MR16 controller. This is about 15 of the MR16s I am using per channel. I also recommend you keep the total controller current under 35 amps if possible.
Programming and Operation of the MR-16
The MR16 controller first needs to be programmed for its starting channel. This is the channel that #1 output cable will be addressed by in the DMX data. If you want this controller to handle channels 80 – 95 you would assign it the starting channel of 80.
To program the Lynx Controller/Dimmer.
- Note: For MR16/DC Controller, where it says turn power on or off, substitute that for connect/remove the negative power lead to/from the MR16
- Note2: Dongle DMX & Pixelnet Firmware - Require different software in order to set the start address
- Note2: DMX Firmware you can use RJ's Lynx Address Program or DMX Deck
- Note2: Pixelnet Firmware you can use Start Channel or xLights or your Sequence software with Pixelnet
Step 1 - Turn off power to controller and move jumper to program mode Leave Power OFF until Step 3
Step 2 - Use appropriate software (see Note2 above) and select address you need. Click on Program button
Step 3 - Turn on controller and count to 5
Step 4 - Turn off controller and move jumper back to operation mode Leave Power OFF until Step 6
Step 5 - Click Stop on the Lynx Address Program
Step 6 - Turn on controller and use your selected program to see if controller is now on the correct start address.
Either exit selected Program or go back to step 1 to program another controller
OPTIONAL Way if the above doesn't work - From RJ
Step 1 - Power up Controller.
Step 2 - Using selected program start to send the address you want.
Step 3 - With power ON carefully move the jumper to Program.
Step 4 - Count to 3 seconds.
Step 5 - Turn OFF the controller.
Step 6 - Put the jumper back to operate and power up controller to try/test.
That’s it! It is set to operate on the channel you wanted. You can change it anytime and as often as you need. It will remember the address for at least 20 years with no power applied.
Being DMX the controller can be controlled from programs other than Vixen if you so choose. it should work with any DMX devices and I have tested it using a number of downloadable software from the internet including the trial edition of Light Factory that comes with the DMX PRO.
When using Vixen I recommend you set Vixen to “draw at 255 levels” instead of 0-100 levels. You want to have 0 -255 levels this will give you access to all 256 levels it provides and not limiting it to just 100 steps you can manual set.
To connect another DMX device to this one simply use a standard straight through Cat5 cable to go from the “DMX OUT” jack to the next Device and connect it to the “DMX IN” jack.
