Manual PassiveHub16

From DiyLightAnimation
Jump to: navigation, search
Lynx PixelNet 16 Port Passive Hub Manual


P16Hub-Finish.jpg

Introduction

Thank you for choosing to build the Lynx PixelNet 16 Port Passive Hub Hub. I believe you will be happy with your choice.


WARNING! This Device has been design for personal use as a means of education and entertainment. As such it is not rated, tested, or approved for any use and I assume no responsibility in the use or operation of this equipment or for the accuracy of any information made on part of itself. This device has been design for my use and my use only. This is simply an explanation of how I built my own personal one for informational purposes. I make no warranties written or otherwise to it. It should be considered an experimental device with possible unknown characteristics.


Please use static precautions in the handling of these parts. If you are not familiar in them please research on the internet prior to handling them. You can damage you parts with improper handling!


Preparing to Build

The next thing we want is to make sure you are up to speed on soldering and electrostatic protection of the components in your kit. If you are not an experienced printed circuit builder I recommend you visit the site:

http://curiousinventor.com/guides/How_To_Solder

And check out there extremely good video on soldering correctly. Even if you are an expert it is a good video to watch.

Another issue you must be aware of is that some electronic components can be damaged easily by electrostatic charges that can build up in you or your equipment. We have all been shocked by walking on carpet and grabbing a door knob before. This is electrostatic charge in action. It takes much less than this to hurt some of our parts. If you are unfamiliar with procedures to protect from this please use the internet to research it before opening your parts up. You can damage your parts if handled wrong!

You will need a few tools that do not come with your kit to build the SS Hub. You will need a good soldering iron. I can not stress enough that a good soldering iron makes a big difference in these projects. The little 15w cheap irons are more apt to hurt your parts by taking too long to get the parts up to soldering temperature than a good iron which can bring it up to temp very fast. Remember it is more how long you keep the part hot than it is how hot you get it within reasonable soldering temperatures. A good soldering iron can be had for very reasonable amounts of money. You can purchase one for $30 to $60 dollars. Most anything that is called a soldering station where there is a temperature control separate from the iron itself will more than likely be fine but make sure it is rated for more than 15 watts.

Solder Stations:

Another recommended Solder Station is the MPJA 302A is has a digital temperature readout


What ever you get make sure and get 4 - 5 extra tips for it. It is an opinion thing but I prefer and find most prefer Chisel tips. get a couple .8 and a few 1.6 to see which you like and then you are ready to go. The tips do wear out and need replacement from time to time. I can build maybe 4 to 8 big controllers (FS, Etc) with a single tip but when you are learning you will use them up faster.


You need solder so buy some. I recommend the .032 size as the larger sizes tend to cause you to put too much solder on. How much? Go ahead and get a 1 lb spool as it’s cheaper in large volume and you will go through it faster than you think. Make sure you are getting rosin core for electronics they make some solder for plumbing that has acid as the core this is a bad mistake to make.

You need some work area to work with good lighting. Do not attempt to solder circuit boards in poorly lighted areas. If you wear reading glasses go get them you will want them I promise you. I recommend a set of helping hands like this: http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2104639&cp=&parentPage=search

Step 1

P16Hub-1.jpg


Install 16 5amp fuses (they are green and a little larger than the .1uf capacitors) as shown above. They have no polarity so you can put them in any direction. Flip the pcb and solder them in then trim the excess leads off short.

I discovered if you bent the leads tight to the fuse they will mostly lock in and not fall out when flipping the pcb over, as shown below.

Fuse.jpg


Step 2

P16Hub-2.jpg


Install five .1uf capacitors as shown above and solder them in place then trim the leads. They have no polarity so you can put them in any direction.


Step 3

P16Hub-3.jpg


Install the 150 ohm resistor in place and solder/trim.


Step 4

P16Hub-4.jpg


Install/solder/trim the 100 ohm 3 watt resistor in place as shown.

Step 5

P16Hub-5.jpg


Install the 8 pin sockets as shown. Make sure to put the notches in the correct direction as marked on the pcb. These sockets have kinked leads that lightly lock the socket to the pcb so you can turn them over to solder without them falling out. This is a nice feature but requires extra caution as the pins can be bent under the socket if care is not taken inserting them. Check before you start soldering that all pins are sticking through the back of the pcb the same. If not correct before soldering.


Step 6

P16Hub-6.jpg


Install the Led with the longer lead in the hole marked with the + sign on the pcb and solder.


Step 7

P16Hub-7.jpg


Insert the 2 eight pin headers as shown and solder then in place.


Step 8

P16Hub-8.jpg


Now install the three 4 pin power connectors. They must be inserted in the correct direction.

The housing of the connect have cut off corners on one side and the marking on the pcb must match the same way. Solder them in, it will take some extra heat so turn up your station some.

Step 9

P16Hub-9.jpg


Install the 100uf capacitor on the pcb as shown. They must be put in in the correct direction so find the black strip with the - sign on the side of the capacitor and make sure it is on the opposite side from the side mark + on the pcb.

Step 10

P16Hub-10.jpg

Install the 24 pin connector as shown and solder into place.


Step 11

P16Hub-11.jpg


Install 18 RJ45 jacks by popping them on the pcb and then soldering 8 pins on each of them. Take your time and do a good job. Do not short any pins as there is power applied to them.


Step 12

Hub-Option.jpg


If you are installing the optional 12v kit remove the power connector from it and solder it into place. Make sure the holes for the wire to insert into is pointing away from the pcb.


Step 13

P16Hub-12.jpg


Install the Blue shunts on all pins marked #1 to start out. This sets the pcb to use pixelnet universe #1.

Now carefully insert all 5 ST485BN chips in their sockets as shown insuring the notch marking pin #1 is matched to the pcb marking.

If you are installing the 12v optional kit you can install the extra parts where marked.

Congrats you have completed a SS passive Hub.


RJ